Podcast: Play in new window | Download

When we stopped at the Ozark Heritage Welcome Center in West Plains, Missouri, we picked up a free travel guide titled “Explore West Plains.” In it, we found suggested road trips. The two that jumped out at us were Eastern Mills and Western Mills.

Spread over Oregon, Howell, and Ozark Counties, we knew it would take several hours to complete each trip, so we planned to explore them on two separate occasions.

Reading through the guide, we were surprised at the number of historic mills in southern Missouri. We’ve been traveling to the area for years and were aware of a few mills but didn’t realize there were so many.

As we explored, we found that some of the mills are basically ruins, not much left to them at all. Others have been nicely restored. None of the mills we visited mill grain anymore. They’re more for preserving area history.

Exploring the Eastern Mills of the Missouri Ozarks

Boze Mill

We chose to explore the eastern mills of the Missouri Ozarks on our first visit, beginning with Boze Mill. We followed directions in the guide and found ourselves in the Mark Twain National Forest. A sign indicated we were at the Boze Mill Float Camp, so we knew we were in the right area. But there was no sign for the mill itself.

We followed a nearby footpath to a river and spring. We found the mill, at least what’s left of it: a turbine and the dam’s rock wall. Water does still rush from beneath the rock wall, which is kind of neat to see.

Turner Mill

We did things out of order from what the guide lists (we suggest you follow the guide), so our next stop was Turner Mill. A sign indicated we were in the right place, but we didn’t see the mill right away. Again, it’s set back from the parking area, so it requires a walk, maybe a quarter mile or so. Although it’s less convenient for today’s tourists, the mills were placed where the water flow would be able to power the mill.

The mill was in the Missouri town of Surprise, which no longer exists. The guide indicates logs were floated down the Eleven Point River and teams of oxen hauled the logs out of the river. That tells us that the Turner Mill was a sawmill rather than a grain mill. Like Boze Mill, there isn’t much left of Turner Mill, but the water wheel still stands.

Falling Spring Mill

Moving on, we drove to Fall Spring Mill. We noticed a cabin near the parking area, so investigated that first. The area founders, Thomas and Jane Brown, built both the cabin and the mill. Eventually, other settlers added another few houses in the area. The original cabin is the only one remaining.

We walked the path a couple hundred or so feet from the cabin to the mill. The refurbished mill is built next to the side of a bluff. Water flows out of the bluff and drives the water wheel, hence the name Falling Spring.

Greer Mill

Our last mill of the day was Greer Mill. The three-story refurbished building is impressive on first sight, but there wasn’t much for us to see besides the building. At one time, the mill ground corn, sawed lumber, and processed cotton and wool. We didn’t see any obvious paths that led directly from the mill to water, so we took a few photos and left.

Greer Spring Trail

Only a half mile from the Greer Mill is the Greer Spring Trail. As we started hiking the trail, which led downward, we came across another couple coming back up. They told us it was quite a distance down to get to the spring but well worth it.

So, down we went, a bit worried about the time because it was nearing dusk. (This was March, and the days were short.) That couple was right. Greer Spring Trail was the highlight of our day, with it’s beautiful blue rushing water.

Exploring the Western Mills of the Missouri Ozarks

A month later we visited the Ozarks again. The primary purpose of our trip was to view the solar eclipse in totality, but we also looked forward to exploring the western mills of the Missouri Ozarks.

Dawt Mill

We’ve been familiar with Dawt Mill for years because Skip’s aunt and uncle lived nearby. On some of our visits with them, we would take float trips that began upstream on the North Fork River and ended at Dawt.

The mill is privately owned, and we’ve watched as the business has changed and grown over the years.

The mill dates back to 1874 and has been rebuilt or refurbished multiple times, due to fire or flood. In one case, a competitor paid a kid ten dollars to burn it down. The problem for the kid was that he rode a three-legged mule, so it was easy to track down the arsonist.

As we pulled up on our current visit, a gentleman was standing outside. It turns out it was the owner, Ed Henegar. The business is seasonal and wouldn’t open until May. But Ed took us inside and gave us a great tour. He showed us how the mill used to operate and all he’s done to improve the place.

Today the mill building (the mill no longer works) includes a restaurant that overlooks the river. Also on the river is a casual bar, an inn, cabins, RV sites, and canoe or kayak rentals.

Hodgson Mill

Hodgson Mill was the most picturesque mill we visited, with a rushing waterfall in front of the red building set into the woods. It makes for some great photo ops.

We discovered a cave opening, and Skip started to walk into it. But not having good lighting and not sure we were supposed to be in there at all, we backed out rather quickly.

Rockbridge Mill

Our last stop of the day was Rockbridge Mill. This was another mill that we had been to before and is privately owned. It operates as a rainbow trout ranch.

We had begun our day in late morning, and now it was about three o’clock. We were hungry. The trout ranch has a nice restaurant that we’ve eaten in before, so we stopped in for a meal. We both chose the special of the day, which was as good as it sounded: maple-glazed trout.

The 1800s grist mill is now home to the seasonal Rockbridge Grist Mill Club, which serves beverages and appetizers.

Fly fishing in the rapids near the dam is a popular activity at Rockbridge, as are other outdoor activities.

Once again, the day was getting away from us, so we saved the last stop, Blue Spring, for the next day.

Blue Spring

The next morning, we found our way to the North Fork Recreation Area and to the parking area at the trailhead. Walking down to the water, we were astounded at how blue it was. We oohed and aahed, took some pictures, and then started hiking more of the trails. The views of the winding blue river from the bluffs above were gorgeous.

The trails are where Skip stepped right over a snake, too. As he walked ahead of me on a narrow ledge, just a foot or so above the water level, I watched him walk right over the snake, not having any idea it was there. And I followed him, hoping I didn’t get bit (I didn’t).

If You Explore the Historic Mills of Ozark County…

West Plains, Missouri, is located on U.S. 160 in southern Missouri, about midway between the state’s east and west borders.

Besides the mills included in the two suggested road trips we took, there are additional historic mills in the Missouri Ozarks. You can find more information about suggested Missouri Ozark day trips on the Explore West Plains website.